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1998 Buick Park Avenue Ultra Supercharged Belt Diagram

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1999 Buick Park Ave Serpentine Belt replacement Made easy.

  • Thread author N.Hough
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    1999 park avenue 2 bolt 3 prong serpentine vin k
  • #1
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Buick Ownership
Buick
1999 Buick Park Ave Serpentine Belt replacement Made easy.

1999 VIN K Park Avenue 3800 Series. 3 prong 2 bolt Motor mount Serpentine Belt Replacement.

I found this thread helpful. http://buickforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31612&page=2

We had to do this job today and thanks to the OP from the thread listed above we were able to refine this down to about 2 hours tops.

I have noticed there are a lot of people looking for information on this particular mounting system and there is little to no information.

Step 1: Run the Passenger side of the car up a ramp and chock the rear tires, this allows for better access below.
Step 2: Place your Jack with a 2x4 cushion under the passenger side or center of the oil pan, run the jack up to place a "Slight" tension against the motor.
Step 3: You will be removing the two front studs on the two front prongs of the motor mount from the engine. Starting with the top one first. The top stud is a 1/4 inch 6 pointed star, we used a 1/4 Hex socket easily. Loosen this stud but not all the way, leave just a few threads.
Step 4: The bottom stud is sized 5/16 6 pointed star, we easily used a 5/16 Hex socket. It as at your disgretion, but you MUST remove the Nut from the stud before you can remove the stud. The body/frame will be in the way just at the seam when trying to remove it.The Stud nut is 11/16.
sTEP 5: Now that you have the bottom stud Nut off, unscrew the stud, you will see it hits the frame/body. Using an 11/16th Deep well socket Remove the two motor mount nuts to the left holding the mount to the frame/body. Realise you are now transfering the motor weight down to the jack.
Step 6: Now remove the top stud completly, pull the bottom stud as far out as you can, LOWER the jack "Slightly to allow the stud to pass the frame/body. Pull the lower stud out.
Step 7: Behind the studs you will see there are two metal sleves, adjust the jack if needed to manipulate the 2 sleeves out of place.Remove the Sleeves.
Step 8: With the two sleeves removed from the two front prongs on the engine mount you now have access to remove the serpentine belt.Make a diagram/drawing of the belt and which pulleys it circles before removing it, you will regret not doing this.
Step 9: The bottom pulleys are the key to removeing the old and installing the new belt. Remove the belt from the top and rear pulleys first, working your way forward and down. Slip the old belt through the openings where the 2 sleeves were and remove it from the remaining pulleys.
Step 10: Install the new belt in reverse starting with the bottom pulleys working up and rear. Finally, save the Alternator pulley for last, Adjust the tensioner again, slip the belt over the alternator pulley and let the tension back on. Your new Belt is on!
Step 12: Reinstall the Top sleeve and Stud first! Getting the top lined up will make the bottom one cake! Leave this one loose though!
Step 13: Getting the bottom sleeve is a bit tricky, but with a little effort you can do it, a little push and a little pry but in the end it will literally drop right in. Slip the stud in and tighten it back snug, Put the nut back on the stud and snug it tight. Tighten the top stud up snug and tight!
Step 14: Gently and slowly start jacking the motor back up to where a sufficient amount of thread have come back through. Tighten the nuts back tight and snug.
Step 15: After snugging all the nuts and bolts and ensuring they are tight, lower and remove the jack. Start and test the engine to make sure the belt is correct! Back down the ramp and clean up your mess.You are DONE!

I hope I was as clear and precise as possible and that this small tutorial will save someone time, money, and a headache!

Please sticky this if possible, it would seem there was only a very small run with this motor mount system in early 1999, it is a completely different system than the single bolt or two bolt bracket!

  • #2
23
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1
Buick Ownership
Buick
You have pretty much described how I did it. I did just a couple of things differently. In order to keep the car as low as possible on the right hand side, since this is the side that you have to work on, I used a hydraulic floor jack and a small (6") hydraulic jack with a small 2X4 block under the front of the oil pan. The other thing that I did which helped a lot was to take out the battery. This provides much better access. Your description of how to do this job will make it much easier for someone who hasn't done it yet.
  • #3
Drakito
Maybe I am crazy, but I thought the 99 and 2003 were the same body? If so, I changed both my belts in about 15-20 minutes in my Ultra.

Do the 99's not have auto tensioners?

If they don't then sorry, but the 2003 is like this:

1. Remove the battery.
2. Using a T55 in a breaker bar, rotate the Supercharger tensioner towards the firewall, counterclockwise. Remove the belt.
3. Using a 15mm in a breaker bar, rotate the normal serpentine pulley counterclockwise towards the firewall. Remove the belt.

4.Re-install in opposite order. Use the factory printed belt diagram on the hood.

The metal "sleeves" were not in the way and did not have to be removed on the 2003. With the battery out of the way you can reach down and put the belts on by yourself. Pull all the slack out and have it sitting next to the tensioner pulley. Take the tension off the pulley and then slide it over. It's easy. You don't have to remove any engine mounts, jack the car up, take off a tire, or remove the inner fender to do it.

  • #4
1
1
0
Buick Ownership
Yes
1999 Buick Park Ave Serpentine Belt replacement Made easy.

1999 VIN K Park Avenue 3800 Series. 3 prong 2 bolt Motor mount Serpentine Belt Replacement.

I found this thread helpful. 99 Park Ave Serp Belt Replacement

We had to do this job today and thanks to the OP from the thread listed above we were able to refine this down to about 2 hours tops.

I have noticed there are a lot of people looking for information on this particular mounting system and there is little to no information.

Step 1: Run the Passenger side of the car up a ramp and chock the rear tires, this allows for better access below.
Step 2: Place your Jack with a 2x4 cushion under the passenger side or center of the oil pan, run the jack up to place a "Slight" tension against the motor.
Step 3: You will be removing the two front studs on the two front prongs of the motor mount from the engine. Starting with the top one first. The top stud is a 1/4 inch 6 pointed star, we used a 1/4 Hex socket easily. Loosen this stud but not all the way, leave just a few threads.
Step 4: The bottom stud is sized 5/16 6 pointed star, we easily used a 5/16 Hex socket. It as at your disgretion, but you MUST remove the Nut from the stud before you can remove the stud. The body/frame will be in the way just at the seam when trying to remove it.The Stud nut is 11/16.
sTEP 5: Now that you have the bottom stud Nut off, unscrew the stud, you will see it hits the frame/body. Using an 11/16th Deep well socket Remove the two motor mount nuts to the left holding the mount to the frame/body. Realise you are now transfering the motor weight down to the jack.
Step 6: Now remove the top stud completly, pull the bottom stud as far out as you can, LOWER the jack "Slightly to allow the stud to pass the frame/body. Pull the lower stud out.
Step 7: Behind the studs you will see there are two metal sleves, adjust the jack if needed to manipulate the 2 sleeves out of place.Remove the Sleeves.
Step 8: With the two sleeves removed from the two front prongs on the engine mount you now have access to remove the serpentine belt.Make a diagram/drawing of the belt and which pulleys it circles before removing it, you will regret not doing this.
Step 9: The bottom pulleys are the key to removeing the old and installing the new belt. Remove the belt from the top and rear pulleys first, working your way forward and down. Slip the old belt through the openings where the 2 sleeves were and remove it from the remaining pulleys.
Step 10: Install the new belt in reverse starting with the bottom pulleys working up and rear. Finally, save the Alternator pulley for last, Adjust the tensioner again, slip the belt over the alternator pulley and let the tension back on. Your new Belt is on!
Step 12: Reinstall the Top sleeve and Stud first! Getting the top lined up will make the bottom one cake! Leave this one loose though!
Step 13: Getting the bottom sleeve is a bit tricky, but with a little effort you can do it, a little push and a little pry but in the end it will literally drop right in. Slip the stud in and tighten it back snug, Put the nut back on the stud and snug it tight. Tighten the top stud up snug and tight!
Step 14: Gently and slowly start jacking the motor back up to where a sufficient amount of thread have come back through. Tighten the nuts back tight and snug.
Step 15: After snugging all the nuts and bolts and ensuring they are tight, lower and remove the jack. Start and test the engine to make sure the belt is correct! Back down the ramp and clean up your mess.You are DONE!

I hope I was as clear and precise as possible and that this small tutorial will save someone time, money, and a headache!

Please sticky this if possible, it would seem there was only a very small run with this motor mount system in early 1999, it is a completely different system than the single bolt or two bolt bracket!


1999 Buick Park Ave Serpentine Belt replacement Made easy.

1999 VIN K Park Avenue 3800 Series. 3 prong 2 bolt Motor mount Serpentine Belt Replacement.

I found this thread helpful. 99 Park Ave Serp Belt Replacement

We had to do this job today and thanks to the OP from the thread listed above we were able to refine this down to about 2 hours tops.

I have noticed there are a lot of people looking for information on this particular mounting system and there is little to no information.

Step 1: Run the Passenger side of the car up a ramp and chock the rear tires, this allows for better access below.
Step 2: Place your Jack with a 2x4 cushion under the passenger side or center of the oil pan, run the jack up to place a "Slight" tension against the motor.
Step 3: You will be removing the two front studs on the two front prongs of the motor mount from the engine. Starting with the top one first. The top stud is a 1/4 inch 6 pointed star, we used a 1/4 Hex socket easily. Loosen this stud but not all the way, leave just a few threads.
Step 4: The bottom stud is sized 5/16 6 pointed star, we easily used a 5/16 Hex socket. It as at your disgretion, but you MUST remove the Nut from the stud before you can remove the stud. The body/frame will be in the way just at the seam when trying to remove it.The Stud nut is 11/16.
sTEP 5: Now that you have the bottom stud Nut off, unscrew the stud, you will see it hits the frame/body. Using an 11/16th Deep well socket Remove the two motor mount nuts to the left holding the mount to the frame/body. Realise you are now transfering the motor weight down to the jack.
Step 6: Now remove the top stud completly, pull the bottom stud as far out as you can, LOWER the jack "Slightly to allow the stud to pass the frame/body. Pull the lower stud out.
Step 7: Behind the studs you will see there are two metal sleves, adjust the jack if needed to manipulate the 2 sleeves out of place.Remove the Sleeves.
Step 8: With the two sleeves removed from the two front prongs on the engine mount you now have access to remove the serpentine belt.Make a diagram/drawing of the belt and which pulleys it circles before removing it, you will regret not doing this.
Step 9: The bottom pulleys are the key to removeing the old and installing the new belt. Remove the belt from the top and rear pulleys first, working your way forward and down. Slip the old belt through the openings where the 2 sleeves were and remove it from the remaining pulleys.
Step 10: Install the new belt in reverse starting with the bottom pulleys working up and rear. Finally, save the Alternator pulley for last, Adjust the tensioner again, slip the belt over the alternator pulley and let the tension back on. Your new Belt is on!
Step 12: Reinstall the Top sleeve and Stud first! Getting the top lined up will make the bottom one cake! Leave this one loose though!
Step 13: Getting the bottom sleeve is a bit tricky, but with a little effort you can do it, a little push and a little pry but in the end it will literally drop right in. Slip the stud in and tighten it back snug, Put the nut back on the stud and snug it tight. Tighten the top stud up snug and tight!
Step 14: Gently and slowly start jacking the motor back up to where a sufficient amount of thread have come back through. Tighten the nuts back tight and snug.
Step 15: After snugging all the nuts and bolts and ensuring they are tight, lower and remove the jack. Start and test the engine to make sure the belt is correct! Back down the ramp and clean up your mess.You are DONE!

I hope I was as clear and precise as possible and that this small tutorial will save someone time, money, and a headache!

Please sticky this if possible, it would seem there was only a very small run with this motor mount system in early 1999, it is a completely different system than the single bolt or two bolt bracket!

I cannot thank you enough. It took me several hours---mainly because I am so afraid I'll make a mistake---,but it saved me $110 in labor, and it gave me a real sense of satisfaction that I could do it.
I finally did what the next guy said and removed the battery. I didn't want to, but oh did it give a lot more room.
Step 13 is done by raising the engine a little at a time until the holes match up. And, don't forget at this time to reinstall the motor mounts and gradually raise them up.
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  • #5
406
70
28
Buick Ownership
93 Park Avenue SC Ultra 2000 Century Limitedd
Same in mt PA 93. It is tight down there but I got it by the motor moint.
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  • #6
1
0
1
Buick Ownership
1998 Park Avenue
Please sticky this if possible, it would seem there was only a very small run with this motor mount system in early 1999, it is a completely different system than the single bolt or two bolt bracket!
I'll give this a bump.
I'm sure o.p. is long gone but THANK YOU !!
  • #7
LARRY70GS
On my 98 Riviera, I removed that lower stud as above to change the belts, but I also cut the long spacer in half with a hack saw. Now, I can back the stud out, and drop out half the spacer, and that gives me enough room to get the belt through.
  • #8
BuickGirlFromMars
2,467
618
113
Buick Ownership
1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged) , 1977 Buick Electra Limited (350 SBB)
On my 98 Riviera, I removed that lower stud as above to change the belts, but I also cut the long spacer in half with a hack saw. Now, I can back the stud out, and drop out half the spacer, and that gives me enough room to get the belt through.
Creative

does your spacer yiu speak of sit below what is the blue in my pic here, above the bracket on the engine, and then two studs come through the bracket and that spacer and have nuts on top?

just making sure the riv has the same bracket as the PA I know the earlier ones didn't, looked like an aurora(same body makes sense)
A64E4134-A060-4186-B715-8B4443B4712E.jpeg

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  • #9
LARRY70GS
There are 3 studs. I believe the large spacer is on the lowest one. I access it through the wheel well.
  • #10
BuickGirlFromMars
2,467
618
113
Buick Ownership
1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged) , 1977 Buick Electra Limited (350 SBB)
There are 3 studs. I believe the large spacer is on the lowest one. I access it through the wheel well.
I meant on the bracket itself that the mount sits on. The studs on the engine for the bracket to be bolted onto the engine is what you mean. I'm just wondering if your riv has the same physical mount system or if it's like a cylinder that's sideways inline with the unibody frame rail
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Source: https://buickforums.com/forums/threads/1999-buick-park-ave-serpentine-belt-replacement-made-easy.32632/

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